Indian Hill Lookout Journal Notes
Nez Perce National Forest, Idaho 2002

by John Crawford

September 12th 1100 hours
Tens of thousands of flying ants are making me a prisoner in my own home. More voices down the ridge. More tent stakes jabbing at the earth. More hunters preparing to stalk the bull elk I've heard bugling below the lookout. A test exit to the catwalk covers me with winged-ants, making me feel like a human pest strip. I quickly retreat back inside my glass-walled house.

September 14th 1400 hours
Another bee enters my humble abode, the uninvited guest joining his buddies who are beating their brains against the invisible glass walls. Having enough of the annoying buzzing, I capture them in an empty margarine container and set them free. Twenty minutes later and they're all back, beating themselves up once again.

A plane's engine cuts through the momentary silence after another game of bee "catch and release". Then another plane lances through the otherwise blank sky. A year after America became a target for terrorists, it's refreshing to know that these planes are heading for airports to land, not towers to smash into. A year of residual fear though causes me to look for any kamikazee pilots who might want to use my tower for a target. Only a couple of hawks are anywhere close. My momentary fear subsides...

Voices down the ridge. The staccato of tent stakes jabbing into the grassy flat two hundred yards from my home. The hunters have arrived.

A raven cackles out over Bluff Creek. Another one answers. A bee from an earlier "catch and release" mission has returned. The wind feels its way around and through the west-side shutters, making the familiar tune of every breezy fall afternoon.

September 16th 1100 hours
I stare out at the inviting Selway Crags, a twenty thousand-acre island of gray talus sloped mountains that form the backdrop for my view to the north. The wilderness tempts me to take my days off to wander the ridges and sink into the red, orange and yellow foliage that fingers into the gray. But I'm stuck. Out of allergy medicine for the beargrass. And out of interest to drive back down my twelve-mile winding-every-which-way-eroded driveway to drive up thirteen miles of winding-every-which-way eroded Fog Mountain Road to get to the trailhead. The decision is made. Stay put. Absorb the Indian Summer weather from my elevated perch and relax.

The wind rushes around the north side of the lookout building, feeling it's way over and under the shutters. I sit on the leeward east side, just out of the increasing breath of air that flaps the dish towels on the rail-hung clothes line like a couple of flags. The real flag to the south comes to life, the red, white and blue flapping with the renewed breeze.

A chipmunk chirps below my forty one-foot nest. A pine squirrel chatters down off to my east. A bee buzzes around my head. A fly off the east railing makes an approach to the Indian Hill airport.
Indian Summer on Indian Hill..

September 17th 1000 hours
A solid gray curtain of fog seals me inside my home, erasing my multi-million acre view. Only an occasional glimpse of the Stars and Stripes hanging limp from the top of the hand peeled twenty foot tree flagpole to my south. A fire crackles and pops next to me, the stove barely offsetting the thirty five degree cold that is penetrating my glass walls. Another day off to wander the ridges, explore the deep canyons that surround my home. But also a perfect day to stay warm and dry by the fire ... writing and reading.

A Canadian Gray Jay lands on the railing three feet from my writing table, looking thoroughly drenched. In need of a good toweling off and a spot by the fire to dry. He cocks his head, giving me that "look", wanting a handout. The robin-size bird hops on the railing, slipping and sliding towards the northeast entry where I'm waiting with a bag of bread for my buddy. Enough of the slip and slide railing, he does a swan dive off the lookout, arcing up and landing on my outstretched hand. A lightning quick peck and he's got the bread in his beak. Then suddenly he springboards out of my hand, diving over the edge of the tower, gliding across the lookout clearing.

I return to my writing nook, capturing the scene. A west wind brings Old Glory to life. A light rain leaves waterbeads on the southwest comer glass. The wind gets stronger, sweeping the rain under the shutters, the waterbeads becoming tears streaming down the windowpanes. Curtains of fog continue to sweep across the mountaintop, fingering into the trees on the eddy side of the ridge.
1300 hours

Waves of misty gray still wallpaper my windows. Hunters, somewhere in the invisible world, are waiting for a break in the weather, holed up in their wall tents.. Or they're crashing through the brush, getting soaked and possibly hopelessly lost.

Another log in the fire and the crackling and popping increases. I move my chair farther away from the stove, coordinating the distance with the hard-to-regulate heat.


September 18th
One cloudbank at a time and my view slowly reappears. A day and a half in the fogged-in lookout and I was feeling like a caterpillar in a very tight cocoon. Claustrophobic. Closed in. Out of touch with the scene now before my eyes. The rain-washed sky brings the colorful vegetation back to life, lifting my spirits from the gray-day depression.

September 19th 1400 hours
A confused wind, my changing chair positions on the catwalk responding to the changing wind positions.

But the sun is not hiding behind the clouds anymore. Today it's one big bowl of blue sky, the solar heat offsetting the chameleon wind direction.

Still feeling the effects of the fog, I can't keep my eyes off the view today. It's so big, so grand, so damn beautiful. The mountains are wearing their fall coat; the brush slopes a colorful patchwork of yellows, oranges, reds and purples.
1700 hours
The dreaded "D" word is announced by two more lookouts. Sheepeater will go down in early October. War Eagle will go down on the 27th. Eight days and counting.

The west wind picks up, making a whistling sound through the shutters. A couple of hawks play in the invisible currents above the lookout, screeching as they do their mating dance. I stand on the catwalk and watch, mesmerized by the aerial acrobatics and the spirit of the wind that carries them aloft.


September 28th
Lookouts are falling like aspen leaves, scattering to the cold west winds that precipitate snow in the high country. I feel lonelier with each mountaintop sentinel lost, a feeling that otherwise goes unnoticed, the voices disappearing from the radio that I've programmed to maximum scan. Silence. Only the wind whistling now. A crackling from the stove. An unidentified bird chirping from a nearby tree.


September 30th
The wind eddies around my airborne ship, escorting the gray away. Veils of snow cascade down from low Selway valley clouds, the wintry contents forming a curved line of white dropping into the deep shadowy green below.

October 18th 1000 hours
A loud disturbance of airwaves. I jump up, looking for the military jet that is screaming by my firetower somewhere to the south. Ahead of the sound, my probing eyes stethoscope the larch-candled mountainsides. More screaming jet engine noise. More searching of what sounds like should be easy to see. But, as usual, the United States Air Force wins. If I were an Iraqi anti aircraft battery, I'd be shaking my head, shooting at ghosts.

Two "hawks" catching a thermal, spiral up and out of Bluff Creek to my east. At lookout elevation, they paddle out of the airstream and glide by the tower, exposing the hawk-look-alike ravens. I do a raven impression and they casually look down at me. One cackles as if he's laughing at my poor attempt to be one of them.

The staccato of a woodpecker pounding on a tree to my east. A chorus of pine squirrel chatters. Bees and flies buzz by my head. Not a tickle of a breeze as I absorb the peace of the mountaintop, my thoughts as far away from civilization as they can get. Feeling free...
2000 hours
I sit on the catwalk, watching the nearly full moon cast deep, dark shadows behind every ridge, the glow frosting the east-facing mountainsides. It is silent. Not a breeze. No coyotes yapping. Nor owls hooting. A deathly still silence that permeates the night, settling in over the mountaintop.

A sound! Chewing of a back leg of my chair on the wrap-around deck. I get up and jiggle the antique captain's chair. A mouse darts out and scampers along the east wall, around the corner of the building and down the stairs.

October 19th 1600 hours
The loaf of bread that I baked in the log cabin wood cookstove doesn't cut it for any upcoming issue of Martha Stewart. But my lack of bread for the last three weeks has me sawing into the bomb-blast-proof crust for three hot-out-of-the-oven pieces. Smothered in what is left of my margarine and swimming in the last of the honey. Uhhmmmm... .good. Gray jays must have heard my call.. .Jack, Jill and Judy showing up before I consume it all. No more crumbs for them. Nice big pieces to fly to wherever they take them. One, two, three, they land on my hand, do a lightning quick peck and float away, doing an I'm sure happy chirping as they do a series of graceful jump-rope-arced flight paths across the clearing.

Clouds today. Summer like alto-cumulus shaped clouds. The 20th of July and I'd be getting ready for a thunderstorm to arrive later in the day. Today I just sit and watch them float by. Nothing to prepare. No fires to call in. The fire season is pretty much over. But wait! A blue smoke at the head of Five Mile Creek! Maybe it is not over! I quick get off my butt and take an azimuth shot on it. 240 degrees 20 minutes. My excitement is squelched with the realization that it is only a hunting camp. Another legitimate smoke.
2100 hours
Ghost like clouds stretch across the eastern nighttime sky. The moonlight accenting the eerie looking cumulus cloud shapes. The wind ebbs and flows through the west-side shutters, singing a familiar tune.


October 20th 0800 hours
The clouds tease me, as tendrils of fog play tag with the treetops, closing off my view one minute then lifting the next minute. Rain percussions off the roof. The west windowpanes spotted with moisture.

Thirty-nine degrees. An eight blanket night. Barely could breathe under all those covers. My bushy tailed wood rat neighbor, better known as a pack rat, was running laps around my house in the middle of the night, his calling card droppings left for me to step on outside my door. Thoughts of using the finger-breaking trap came to mind. Then guilt plagued me as I nearly did break my finger setting it. I'd let the little guy live. This is his home, even more than mine.

October 21st
Fire crew shows up and help with closing the lookout for the season. Boxes, bags and backpacks are hauled down the four flights of stairs. Cables are loosened. Solar panel unbolted from the antennae and stored in the lookout. Water containers draining. Ashes from the stove dumped in the outhouse. The routed Indian Hill sign put away in the log cabin. The refrigerator, stove and floor cleaned one last time. And last, the shutters close my eyes for the eight month long winter.

The support crew leaves and I lag behind. Sadly I get into my pickup that will take me back to civilization and start the engine that has been dormant for weeks. Slowly I pull out from behind the log cabin and make my way below the dried wildflower-covered ridge where I wandered on my before and after hours hikes. I passed the grassy helispot, the old corral, and the outhouse at the edge of the woods. Then I ascended the short rise that would take me to my twelve-mile long descent to the world below. At the spring trail junction I let off the accelerator and came to a halt amongst the dried beargrass remains, small brown balls of once beautiful cream-colored flowers hanging from the stalks like ornaments on thousands of little Charlie Brown Christmas trees. Turning off the ignition I got out of my rig and looked back at the tiny stick model of a lookout that sprouted out of a bunch of rock outcrops. The white shutters reflected the last of the afternoon's cloud-filtered light. The boarded-up structure looked so abandoned. So without its occupant. Tiny wing flecks of my gray jay pets fluttered around the catwalk railing, getting the last of the bread pieces that I left them.

A wind gust breathed through the firs, spruces and pines above my head, bending their tops in graceful arcs to the leeward east side of the ridge. A tickle of breeze waved the beargrass wands, feeling my cheeks.

It was time to go. To head to warmer country. To finally say goodbye to my friend in the sky. To say goodbye to a mountaintop. I raised my right hand and saluted the tower as tears flowed down my cheeks. "Goodbye Indian Hill!" I yelled into another wind wave that crested over the ridge.

Once more I got into my pickup and started the engine that squelched the wind crescendo. I put it into gear and let off the clutch, taking one last look at the reflection of my summer home in my rear view mirror. "Until next summer!" I said to my friend as the tower faded from view...

To all lookout enthusiasts...

Next summer will be my 30th year on Indian Hill Lookout. If you happen to get in the Selway Country (the tower is visible from Selway Falls), stop up for a visit. I'd love to trade notes on lookouts and share in some of my experiences as a fire lookout for three decades.

John

Back to the Home Page